In the last few years, whenever a friend from outside of town visits they are taken to the Backstube, mostly to Nordendstr. … and whoever tastes Julius’ bread is hooked. So, it comes to no surprise, “bring me Julius Brantner bread when you come re-visiting” is the subtly expressed wish ever since by the same friends.
Julius Brantner cares for quality time. Not for himself, but for his bread. Because that is exactly what the son of a baker’s family from the Black Forest gives his bread in generous portions. The 100 percent natural organic ingredients, spread over just three types of breads, two buns and, exclusively in the branch at Kreuzstrasse 1, Swabian Brezel (Tue – Fri also offers so-called specials for a nice variation), are given the time they need to be baked into an absolutely digestible sourdough bread.
“Real” is another term that Julius personifies with his bread craft. The smell of freshly baked bread, the crust of the buns, the passion of his employees – if you wander near the crossroads of Nordendstraße and Friedrichstrasse in Munich’s Schwabing, you inevitably smell the bread. Next thing you see is likely to be a cue.
“Bio Brothandwerk 25” is the name of the Signature Bread, consisting of wholemeal wheat and rye flour, wholemeal rye and rye natural sourdough. Once the dough has been mixed, however, it may only be put into the really hot oven after two full days. Therefore, the Backstube is only open till the last bread is sold. Which equals to approx. 600 loafs of bread and 700 buns.
Just six months after the opening, Julius was awarded the title of “Best Baker in Munich” (reader survey by Falstaff magazine). This was 2019. Meanwhile his bread is served in several top restaurants in Munich. Â
What sets Julius Brantner apart from other bakers is his commitment to using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. The bakery works with small-scale farmers, such as the organically certified miller Monika Drax (link) from Upper Bavaria and producers following sustainable standards and cultivating crop rotation.
Is there a secret other than quality, passion and craftsmanship? Hardly so. Julius believes firmly in his abilities and concept, also in his ability to lead his staff by example, and last but not least: Only if he feels like doing it, he does it.
JOURNAL. What you might want to know…
Doing something by hand can change a lot. Buying something handmade out of conviction can do the same. It changes – or has already changed – the way we think. Especially when it comes to our food. What do we buy? Who made it? What can we perhaps grow ourselves? How do our actions and decisions change, first ourselves, then our purchases, then the landscape?
Every sourdough – that culture of lactic acid bacteria and yeast in a mixture of flour and water – is unique, like a fingerprint, because in every region there are individual bacteria in the air that give each loaf its very own flavour. One person who knows more about the infinite variety of sourdough cultures than most – whose culture is culture, so to speak – is the Belgian Karl De Smedt, keeper and archivist of Europe’s only sourdough library.
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